Kimberly's Favourite Diagnostic Bras
- Kimberly
- Aug 21
- 5 min read
These are the styles I most often reach for when I'm starting a fitting to establish a client's bra size. I do not use a measuring tape to establish a starting point; I fit by eye and by feel.
First, I'll ask you what size bra you've been buying, and possibly the brand, to determine the sizing system, and I'll make an initial visual assessment. At that point, most people also start sharing their likes and dislikes about their current bras.
From there, I'll head to the stock room and select a diagnostic bra in what I believe to be the best size and style to start with, based on the information that I have. I advise clients not to be too concerned about how the bra fits or its style, as it gives us a starting point.
I most often start with a full-cup underwired bra, unless for some reason that's not possible. It allows me to see the shape and fit of the cup, address any fit issues early on, and begin to teach clients how best to put on and adjust their bra. It's easier to find a good fit in a wired bra, and then pivot to a non-wire for comfort.
Since the majority of brands that I carry are in UK sizing, I also often start with a UK brand. The size translations between the brands and styles work more easily in my head this way.
1. Fantasie Envisage Full Cup - $90
Gentle stretch lace panel in the upper cup makes it forgiving
Slightly shallower top cup, so ideal for those without a lot of fullness on top
Great for more mature breast tissue or softer shapes
Works beautifully in the DD to FF range
I usually pull this in 30 to 38 band sizes
It's reliable, elegant, and doesn't overwhelm the body. A solid first bra for clients to try while I assess their fit, shape, and the style of bra they're looking for. Do we need something smoother? Are seams and detail ok?
2. Elomi Morgan - $99
Soft stretch lace in the upper cup
Deep, projected fit with more full coverage.
Features a side support panel that helps centre the bust and bring it forward
Available in a wide range of sizes, starting around a FF cup in larger band sizes, and from 32GG, now to 46 bands, and up to LL cups
Elomi Morgan has the most extensive size range of any bra in the shop.
Morgan is one of my go-to bras for full-busted clients who need consistent support and generous cup depth. I trust this bra to tell me a lot. Elomi is my most popular brand for plus-size or GG+ figure types, so we can easily shift to other styles to compare.
3. Elomi Lucie - $99
Soft stretch lace in the upper cup
Reduced coverage compared to Morgan
Available in a wide range of sizes, starting around a FF cup in larger band sizes, and up to a JJ cup
Lucie is my alternative to Elomi Morgan for clients who prefer a less full-coverage style, are younger, or have a more petite build. It's less visually overwhelming than a full coverage Morgan.
4. Primadonna Madison or Deauville - $186 - $190
Full cup coverage and deep cups
Gentle stretch through the cup
Firm underband
More flexible underwire than UK brands
EU sizing (no double-letters)
Primadonna is a premium brand and makes exquisite lingerie for the full-bust. Although I don't often start with this brand, I occasionally reach for it in the smaller cups (D-G) when I don't think the Envisage is the best starting point. The price point of a Primadonna bra is significantly higher than that of the UK brands. Still, clients can feel a difference in the fabrics and construction when comparing Primadonna to lower-priced brands.
Why I Rarely Start With a Moulded Cup
Moulded (pre-shaped foam or fabric) bras can make it harder to tell what your natural shape is doing inside the bra. Unless I suspect someone is around a DD or smaller with a narrow ribcage, I usually hold off on moulded cups for the first fit.
They're not very forgiving, and they hide a lot of the visual cues I need to assess size and shape. Once we understand your fit, we can explore moulded styles that will work well for you.
Moulded cups are also a challenging fit for those with full busts, reduced top cup fullness, or a projected bust. Starting with a seamed and structured bra also helps set the scene for what's possible in terms of fit, lift and shape.
What the Online Community Recommends
If you've been browsing r/ABraThatFits or other online bra fitting forums, you've probably seen some of these names come up often — and for good reason:
Community-Favourite Diagnostic Bras:
Elomi Matilda
32 - 46 bands, DD - K cups (not all band & cup combinations available)
Rigid cup, but tends to be tall and fit deep in the top cup
Side panel and split bottom cup (4 cup pieces)
Plunge style
Wider underwire
Panache Envy
28 - 40 bands, D - K cups (not all band & cup combinations available)
Full cup, but not full coverage
Wider set shoulder straps
Side panel and split bottom cup (4 cup pieces)
Stretch lace top cup
Narrow(er) and firm underwire
Firm-fitting band
Panache Ana
28 - 38 bands, D - J cups (not all band & cup combinations available)
Non-padded plunge
Shorter underarm height
Stretch lace top cup
3-piece cup w/interior side sling
Runs 1 cup size smaller than most other styles
These styles are widely stocked by specialist bra fitting retailers, making them easier to find. They have been seen in the bra fitting community on thousands of people with all kinds of body shapes and in a wide range of sizes. They're solid choices to start with, especially if you're figuring things out on your own. Since they're popular styles and come in seasonal colours, they're also frequently found on sale.
Elomi and Panache are two of the most trusted UK full-bust brands. Their sizing is relatively consistent, and their design philosophies make them helpful starting points. Both brands make quality products in a wide range of sizes, and styles, and prices are competitive. Deep cups with forward shaping and an average-to-wide underwire profile are ideal for many with full and projected busts, or those in larger band sizes. My inventory reflects quality products with an exceptional fit. You can trust that we've selected bestselling brands and leading styles to match you with a bra that fits. ~ Kimberly Kimtimates | The Bra Fit Specialists
Have a good fit.
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